Juvenis Peregrinus

Yes, I'm going back to work.

2007-12-31T09:23:00.002-05:00

No, it's not that bad. Don't worry.

That said, if anyone wants to start a fund to keep me traveling and blogging instead of sitting at my desk I'm all for it.

Just throwing that out there.

"Are you looking forward to sleeping in your own bed?"

2007-12-31T09:23:00.001-05:00

Well, I would be. But, I gave it away before I left.

The journey is complete.

2007-12-31T09:20:00.000-05:00

I'm in North Carolina.

I've been able to see a few of my favorite people already.

I'm happy.

The last books I read.

2007-12-27T10:14:00.000-05:00

The Quiet American - Graham Greene
Jake's Thing - Kingsley Amis
The New York Trilogy - Paul Auster (finally, months after every Turkish person I talked to about books recommended it to me)

How to end this thing.

2007-12-20T09:23:00.000-05:00

I'm not quite sure what to do now. So, I'm thinking about a list of bests and worsts. Q&A. FAQ. That kind of thing. Eh?

I'm East. East Coast.

2007-12-20T00:18:00.001-05:00

Slow day on planes. John Wayne to Phoenix to Pittsburgh to Baltimore. Jet lag appears to not be an issue...yet.

Everything is great. I am happy to be home.

I'll have a phone tomorrow.

2007-12-19T10:06:00.000-05:00

And a car, and an entire suitcase full of clothes to wear.

One more day of travel...

2007-12-19T10:00:00.000-05:00

I'm flying to Baltimore today... my last flight(s) for a very long time.

Fiji.

2007-12-19T00:17:00.000-05:00

I went to the tiniest of the 300+ Fijian islands (you could walk around the entire island, at low tide, at island place, in less than ten minutes).

Most of the entertainment was in the sea. Fantastic snorkeling, the best I've ever seen.

We had a few afternoon storms, including a very dramatic return trip to the mainland. I lost my pack cover to the wind, and watched it, bright orange, bobbing on the waves. I still feel guilty about it.

Returned.

2007-12-19T00:06:00.000-05:00

My brother picked me up from LAX during rush hour in the rain. I watched an NBA game while I waited for him. We ate In-n-Out burger for dinner. Yes. I'm back.

Fiji. Check.

2007-12-18T02:09:00.000-05:00

Paying by the minute so I'll have to update you later. It's the rainy season. Flight to LA is delayed. Surprise! Everyone is unhappy with "Air Pathetic." Made it through a fierce storm back to the mainland, everything is soaked, but I have a few hours to dry out. A few, or ten, we'll see.

I'm in Fiji. Finally.

2007-12-15T13:36:00.000-05:00

Arrived this morning at 4:30 a.m. Finally, got bags and to the shuttle at 5:30 a.m. Watched the sunrise in the meantime. The shuttle bus didn't start so the driver had to find three guys to push us for about 50 meters. It wasn't looking good, but we made it. I'm at a hotel for two hours, then I go to the port to catch a ferry to South Sea Island. I'll be hanging out there for three days.

Then, hopefully on to LA at a reasonable time on the 18th.

Flight delayed. Of course.

2007-12-15T05:16:00.000-05:00

I'm in the Auckland airport. The flight, that was rescheduled for 12:35 a.m. is now delayed until 2:00 a.m. That makes for arrival in Fiji at 4 a.m. If things go accordingly. They gave us $10 for food, but, I personally don't think it's just compensation.

But, I am excited to come home and see you!

2007-12-14T15:13:00.001-05:00

I'm sad to leave New Zealand.

2007-12-14T15:12:00.000-05:00

There is so much more to see and do. I will definitely have to come back here...sometime...in the far off future.

Not sure what the internet access will be like in Fiji.

2007-12-14T15:10:00.000-05:00

So, don't worry if you don't hear from until I get to LA. I don't think that will happen, but you never know.

So, I'll be in Fiji for three days.

2007-12-13T22:08:00.000-05:00

The next few days. Of course, things got complicated.

2007-12-13T21:52:00.001-05:00

I'm flying to Fiji tomorrow. Well, technically Sunday. Long story short, Air Pacific canceled my original flight for Saturday afternoon and put me on one that leaves Auckland at 12:45 a.m. and arrives at 2:45 a.m. on Sunday morning. Not exactly convenient. I had to pay to change my flight from Christchurch to Auckland (otherwise I would be in the airport from 9 a.m. to 1 a.m.) and lose money on the accommodation I booked in Fiji. The airline won't do anything about it until I turn up in Fiji, with my complaints in writing.

I don't know who is going to be manning the desk at 2:45 a.m. in Nadi, but they should be prepared to give me some money or upgrade me to first class all the way to LA.

Fair enough right?

I'm coming home soon.

2007-12-12T15:13:00.000-05:00

It is a matter of days.

Wanaka.

2007-12-12T15:09:00.000-05:00

We drove a spectular 52 k along the ridge from Queenstown to Wanaka. Wanaka is a fantastic small town...I wish I had more time here. Tomorrow, I have to say goodbye to Tracey and Graeme and spend the day on the bus to Christchurch.

Best movie theatre in the world?

2007-12-12T15:01:00.000-05:00

We saw "La Vie En Rose" last night at Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka. They have local beer and they bake cookies during the first half of the movie for intermission.

I think we're going to Wanaka tonight.

2007-12-11T15:23:00.001-05:00

Tracey and Graeme and I are going to do a short hike today in Queenstown, weather permitting, and then drive up to Wanaka. That's the idea anyway.

Some things I'm not doing in Queenstown.

2007-12-11T15:16:00.000-05:00

1. Bungy jumping
2. Sky Diving
3. Jet Boating

Tracey and Graeme from Nottingham.

2007-12-10T23:35:00.002-05:00

and the van.

Have you had enough?

2007-12-10T23:35:00.001-05:00

So many pictures...but I can't help myself.

The boat meets us at Sandfly Point on the Milford Sound.

2007-12-10T23:31:00.001-05:00

We walked 53 km...or 33 miles.

Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point - the last day.

2007-12-10T23:22:00.000-05:00

Sutherland Falls.

2007-12-10T23:15:00.000-05:00

The highest waterfall in NZ. We wore our bathing suits and raincoats and climbed the rocks behind the falls. Probably the most fun we had all weekend. The power of this waterfall was incredible - and the water was absolutely freezing! I can't believe I don't have any pictures of the pool at the bottom. It was intense.

Me. Happy to be at the top.

2007-12-10T23:13:00.000-05:00

Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut - the summit.

2007-12-10T23:00:00.000-05:00

Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut - where we started.

2007-12-10T22:55:00.000-05:00

We swam in those lakes.

Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut - we start to climb.

2007-12-10T22:42:00.000-05:00

More Milford pictures.

2007-12-10T22:41:00.001-05:00

Picking up where I left off.

We're in Queenstown.

2007-12-10T22:40:00.000-05:00

It's a posh ski town. I think tomorrow Tracey, Graham and I will go north to Wanaka.

I'll have to continue the Milford Track photos in Queenstown.

2007-12-09T23:56:00.004-05:00

It's just too expensive here in Te Anau.

Only five days left in New Zealand!

2007-12-09T23:56:00.003-05:00

I'm trying to squeeze in Queenstown and Wanaka and a few day walks before I bus back to Christchurch on the 14th to catch my flights on the 15th.

Hitching a Ride to Queenstown.

2007-12-09T23:52:00.000-05:00

I met a super nice British couple on the Milford Track and they offered me a ride to Queenstown tomorrow in their van. It's the three of us in the front seat because the back is all bed.

Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut.

2007-12-09T17:48:00.000-05:00

A long, but mostly level, walk to the Mintaro Hut. We had perfect weather, and hot enough to make taking a dip in the icy water of the lake near the hut seem like a good idea. We waded in to our waists, gasping and giving each other pep talks until our legs went numb, dove under and immediately made for the shore. Wow. Then we laid in the sun like the fur seals.

Lake Te Anau to the Clinton Hut.

2007-12-09T17:35:00.000-05:00

Only 1.5 hours easy walking to the hut.

Lake Te Anau.

2007-12-09T17:25:00.001-05:00

We took a bus near the end of the lake, then a boat to the start of the track. The track connects Lake Te Anau to the Milford Sound. A guy named MacKinnon established the track in 1888.

Part of me doesn't want to show you the pictures...

2007-12-09T17:24:00.001-05:00

Because I want everyone to do this walk themselves!

I'll show you a few, anyway.

I'm back in Te Anau.

2007-12-09T04:42:00.000-05:00

The Milford Track was probably the best walk I've ever done. It is amazing. Perfect weather. Really fantastic. I loved it. Pictures tomorrow (hopefully).

I'm away hiking the Milford Track.

2007-12-05T17:33:00.000-05:00

Today, I've got a two-hour bus ride, a half-hour boat ride, and a two-hour walk. Tomorrow, I climb a mountain. The next day, I come down the mountain. The last day, a walk to the Milford Sound, another boat ride, another bus, and I'm back.

Sunday night (Sat. afternoon for most of you) I should have some more posts.

Wish me luck. This one's going to be a bit tougher than Abel Tasman.

I made it to Te Anau.

2007-12-05T01:10:00.000-05:00

Viewing the South Island on a double-decker bus for 11 1/2 hours isn't the worst way to spend a day.

Tomorrow, another long day on the bus.

2007-12-03T22:28:00.000-05:00

I'm going all the way to Te Anau tomorrow - 8 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. on the bus. It's on the way to the start of the Milford Track.

Little Britain.

2007-12-03T22:26:00.001-05:00

Christchurch really is like a mini-England. Gardens, churches, houses, street names, food, all of it.

Nicole.

2007-12-03T05:13:00.000-05:00

Nicole, my once-upon-a-time potential travelling partner, just moved to Christchurch a month ago. We've been hanging out after work (she's the one working, of course). It's good.

Charlotte.

2007-12-03T05:10:00.000-05:00

I spent a day in Auckland hanging out with a British girl named Charlotte. Since then, I've run into her on the ferry to Picton, on the bus from Nelson to Abel Tasman, and again on the bus between Kaikora and Christchurch.

Sandflies.

2007-12-03T05:08:00.000-05:00

New Zealand's only predator. In Abel Tasman and all along the west coast sandflies are everywhere. They itch more than mosquitos and the bites last longer. I'm looking for the local prevention, Tui balm, but haven't found it yet. I need it!

I'm farther south than I've ever been.

2007-12-01T18:41:00.001-05:00

And still going.

That bus ride to Christchurch...

2007-12-01T18:39:00.000-05:00

Our bus broke down today climbing the Rai saddle, so I have a nice two-hour lunch break in Blenheim, the heart of Malborough wine country. Back on the bus for five more hours down south to Christchurch.

Day Five - Whariwharangi to Nelson...

2007-12-01T18:38:00.000-05:00

Only a 1.5 hour walk from Whariwharangi to the bus stop in Wainui, and then I was on my way back to Nelson. Went out to eat something that hadn't been freeze-dried and prepared for the bus ride to Christchurch.

Day Four - Awaroa to Whariwharangi

2007-12-01T18:36:00.000-05:00

I took an hour's detour to visit Separation Point to hang out with seals. It rained a bit but overall, was a pretty good day weather-wise. Arrived at the hut and thought I would be the only one there, but then another American showed up, and a guy from Catalan, and a woman from England.

Day Four - Awaroa to Whariwharangi

2007-12-01T18:22:00.001-05:00

Day Three - Bark Bay to Awaroa

2007-12-01T18:20:00.001-05:00

I walked for about four hours, then sat down to watch the tide go out. All afternoon. Read a book, too, Martin Amis' Time's Arrow.

Day Three - Bark Bay to Awaroa

2007-12-01T18:07:00.000-05:00

Day Two - Anchorage to Bark Bay

2007-12-01T18:01:00.000-05:00

Short three-hour walk after an early tidal crossing. You have to pay attention to these things in Abel Tasman. I took my time, met a few people on the way, too. At the hut, another big group, but this time they were a school group of 16-year-olds. Also, chatted with a French guy traveling for a year, or so. He recommends Peru.

Day Two - Anchorage to Bark Bay

2007-12-01T17:45:00.000-05:00

Day One - Marahau to Anchorage

2007-12-01T03:50:00.000-05:00

Walked for about four hours from the beginning of the park to the Anchorage Hut. Arrived to find a part of 23 senior citizens on their annual tramping holiday. The average age was probably 75. They were planning to walk twice as far as I was the next day. New Zealanders are serious about tramping.

I also met a very nice German girl who forgot the insoles of her hiking boots, and a 20-year-old guy from Quebec kayaking and hiking the park.

Day One - Marahau to Anchorage

2007-12-01T03:44:00.000-05:00

I'm back.

2007-11-30T23:00:00.000-05:00

Had an awesome week in the park. Pictures are coming....

I'm off!

2007-11-26T14:11:00.000-05:00

I'll be in Abel Tasman until Saturday afternoon (that's Friday evening for most of you) so no updates for awhile.

It should be a good warm-up for the Milford Track, since I have to carry everything, but without any trecherous Mt. Doom-like climbs.

Lots of pictures at the end of the week!

Interislander ferry.

2007-11-25T03:00:00.000-05:00

Tomorrow morning I'm taking the ferry south to Picton. Then, hopping on a bus to Nelson. Should be about six or seven hours of travel.

I'm making my way to Abel Tasman National Park to start hiking on Tuesday.

Wellington

2007-11-24T21:31:00.000-05:00

Wellington is a really cool town. It's compact, so easy to walk around. Has some interesting public spaces and architecture. And, a great museum of NZ called Te Papa.

Today, we fly.

2007-11-23T17:22:00.000-05:00

Mara is going all the way back to NC and I'm taking a quick flight down to Wellington (again, cheaper than the bus).

The last drive.

2007-11-23T17:16:00.000-05:00

We took an involuntary, but scenic, detour somewhere between Turangi and Auckland.

Happy Thanksgiving.

2007-11-22T16:59:00.000-05:00

We're celebrating today (Friday) in solidarity with you all (since we're a day ahead).

The day after.

2007-11-22T16:52:00.000-05:00

We're both a little sore after climbing the volcano for three hours and then walking down the other side for about five. It was a long walk for a one-day trek.

Lake views.

2007-11-22T16:48:00.000-05:00

Mara.

2007-11-22T00:58:00.000-05:00

Can you see the path?

2007-11-22T00:54:00.000-05:00

The Emerald Lakes and the Blue Lake.

2007-11-22T00:49:00.000-05:00

In front of the Blue Lake.

2007-11-22T00:43:00.001-05:00

The Red Crater.

2007-11-22T00:40:00.001-05:00

What we left behind us.

2007-11-22T00:35:00.000-05:00

This was a one-way crossing.

Here we go. Mt. Ngauruhoe.

2007-11-22T00:30:00.000-05:00

Tomorrow, we climb Mt. Doom.

2007-11-21T01:58:00.001-05:00

Seriously. We're hiking the Tongariro Crossing. Eight hours trekking across volcanoes.

More Art Deco Napier.

2007-11-21T01:48:00.001-05:00

You asked for it.

2007-11-21T01:42:00.001-05:00

Mara. Me. Mirrorball. Marine Parade. Napier.

(Mara says, "Gazing into the eye of Sauron. There will be no dawn for men.")

Art Deco Napier.

2007-11-21T01:29:00.000-05:00

Backpacker Stereo.

2007-11-21T01:20:00.001-05:00

It works. Well, well enough.

Napier.

2007-11-19T23:55:00.004-05:00

So much to do here. I don't think either of us are ready to leave yet.

Someone tell me.

2007-11-19T23:55:00.003-05:00

Where is Old Zealand anyway?

Tuesday...uh, yeah, more wine tastings.

2007-11-19T23:54:00.000-05:00

This time on bikes!

We cycled around Hawkes Bay visiting more wineries, a brewery/cidery?, and a chocolate factory. Fun.

Wine Tasting. Mmmmm.

2007-11-19T02:55:00.000-05:00

This, too.

2007-11-19T02:49:00.000-05:00

This is real.

2007-11-19T02:46:00.000-05:00

Near Coromandel Peninsula, NZ.

Today. Wine Tour.

2007-11-19T02:28:00.000-05:00

Mara and I went on a wine tasting tour to four Hawkes Bay wineries. Great Chardonnay, Viognier, Reisling and Sangiovese.

"Wow. Look at that!"

2007-11-18T04:54:00.000-05:00

You say that about every two minutes when driving in NZ. It is incredible. Hopefully, I can upload some pictures tomorrow.

We rented a car.

2007-11-18T04:53:00.001-05:00

I'm driving since the left is easy for me now. Yesterday we left Auckland airport and drove east to the Coromondel Peninsula. Amazing. Today, before we left the woman's house where we stayed, we watched her feed the eels in the creek. Then, we drove from Coromandel Town down to Napier.

Mara has arrived!

2007-11-18T04:52:00.001-05:00

We've been laughing a lot. She is totally free of jet lag, too. I'm impressed.

Auckland.

2007-11-15T23:53:00.000-05:00

A ho-hum town. Spending my time planning for hiking/trekking/tramping (whatever you want to call it).

Abel Tasman National Park.

2007-11-15T23:52:00.000-05:00

I'll be there for four days of hiking at the end of the month. It's at the top of the South Island. Milford Sound is at the bottom.

Milford Sound.

2007-11-14T18:44:00.000-05:00

I just booked a four-day "tramp" through Fiordland National Park to the Milford Sound for December. This is supposed to be one of the most spectacular hikes in the world (and was recommended by every kiwi I met through my travels). The Department of Conservation in NZ only allows 40 people on the path each day. I can't wait to get there.

Two days to kill in Auckland.

2007-11-14T18:42:00.001-05:00

Then Mara arrives!

New Zealand bound.

2007-11-13T07:35:00.000-05:00

Tomorrow morning I'm flying to Auckland.

Aussie Creatures.

2007-11-13T07:26:00.000-05:00

Kangaroos, giant lizard, emu. Also, koalas, wombats, wedge-tailed eagles and tons of smaller birds, Tasmanian devils, dingos, echidnas, etc. Bizarre creatures on this continent.

Bianca and Ben.

2007-11-13T07:21:00.000-05:00

The Jolleys (my Adelaide hosts) in the McLaren Vale.

2007-11-13T07:17:00.000-05:00

It had to be done.

2007-11-13T07:12:00.000-05:00